Machine knit Kiddie Sweater (for newborn goat babies) Gauge: 16 stitches per 4 inches. This is made in two parts: a body piece and a chest piece and then sewn together. Body: cast on 40 stitches with e-stitch cast-on. work in rib for 3 inches (about 10 rows). Knit even to 16 inches (about 55 rows, not including ribbing). Cast off 1 stitch each end for 5 rows. Bind off. Chest piece: cast on 5 stitches with e-stitch. Increase 2 stitches each end every other row to 3-1/2 inches (13 stitches on needles). Knit even for 8 inches (about 28 rows). End in 4 rows ribbing. Bind off. Finishing: Seam neck ribbing on body piece. Place point of chest piece at ribbing seam and seam down both sides to the increase stop on the chest piece. Leave 2 inch opening on each side (for front legs) and continue seam to including ribbing on chest piece. Note: chest piece ribbing will not go to end of body piece. Finished:       --------/  /                   ----O--/ *note:  This sweater tends to curl (as you can see in the picture)  To prevent this we now add a row of single crochet around the edge of the back opening.

 

Machine knit Kiddie Sweater (modified) This pattern was written for a mid-gauge knitting machine. It takes me about 1 hour to knit and sew together. This sweater is made in two pieces (back and chest), then sewn together. I do not have a ribbing attachment, so the ribbing I use is a mock ribbing. If you have a ribber (or want to hand knit the ribbing), cut the number of ribbing rows in half and use the full number of needles (stitches) as the part of the sweater you are knitting. I used Wool-Ease™ worsted wool by Lion Brand Gauge: 6 stitches/inch; 7 rows/inch CLICK  HERE to download the Machine Knit Goat Sweater Instructions NOTE: To view and/or print these instructions you must have the » Acrobat Reader. If you have problems with this pattern, you may contact Tara.

 

Hand Knit Kiddie Sweater: Supplies:  knitting needles #6 and 1 set double pointed knitting needles #6 yarn needle  stitch holder This is made using 1 main color (MC) and a contrast color for stripes (CA) Starting at tail end with MC and single pointed needle, cast on 36 sts. Ribbing: Row 1: *K1,p1. Rep. from * across to within last st, sl 1 instead of p 1. Row 2: K1, inc 1 st in next st, p 1, work across in ribbing as for row 1 to within last 2 sts, inc 1 st in next st, sl 1. Repeat row 2 until there are 46 sts.  Next row: Work in ribbing to last st, sl 1. Repeat last row until total length is 2".  Drop MC, do not cut yarn. Join CA. Next 2 rows:  Continuing in rib pattern work with CA.  At end of 2nd row drop CA, do not cut, and pick up MC.   Next 2 rows work even.  At end of 2nd row drop MC (don't cut) and pick up CA.   Next 2 rows: work even. At end of 2nd row drop CA and cut yarn leaving a 6" tail, pick up MC. Next row: Work across in rib. pat.  Continue in MC only. Begin Body: Foundation row: K across, inc 1 st at end of row (47 sts). BEGIN PAT: K1; * k 1 in st directly below next st on left-hand needle and slip the st off left-hand needle- k 1 below made; k 1. Rep from * across.   Row2: K 2,* k 1 below, k 1. Rep. from * across, end with k 2 instead of k 1. Repeat rows 1 and 2 until total length is 8 1/2 ".   Now inc 1 st at both ends of every row until there are 57 sts.  Mark ea. end of last row with contrasting color thread to indicate beg of seam.   Work even until total length is 11", end with working row 2.   Continuing in pattern work leg opening as follows: Leg Opening: Work across first 6 sts, bind off next 4 sts, work across in pat to within last 10 sts, bind off next 4 sts, with 1 st remaining on right-hand needle work last 5 sts.   MARK this row as right side.  Work even over last group of 6 sts for 2 1/2 ", end with working a wrong side row.   Slip sts onto holder.  With wrong side facing, join yarn to first st of next center group of sts and complete as for first group.   Complete last group of sts as for first group, end with working a right side row and casting on the same number of sts over each set of bound off sts.  There are 57 sts. Continuing body in pat, dec 1 st at both ends of next row and every 5th row until there are 49 sts.  Work even until total length is 16", end with working a right side row.  NEXT row: K across and inc 7 sts evenly spaced. COLLAR: Work in ribbing for 2 1/2 " , then work 2 rows with CA, 2 rows with MC, 2 rows with CA and 2 rows with MC as before.   Bind off in rib pat. LEG: (Work 2) : With right side facing, MC and dpn, pick up and k 33 sts around 1 leg opening.   Divide sts evenly among 3 needles and work in rnds as follows: Rnds 1-3: * K1, p 2. Rep. from * around.   Rnd 4: * K1, p 2 tog. Rep. from * around.   Drop MC, join CA as before.   Rnds 5 and 6: Work in k 1 p 1 ribbing.   Drop CA and cut yarn.   Join MC. LAST 2 Rnds: Repeat rnds 5 & 6, do not change colors.   Bind off in rib pat. Starting at markers sew center seam. Turn back collar.  Weave in all yarn ends. Takes approx. 4 0unces of MC and 1/2 ounce of CA.

 

Crochet Kiddie Sweater Crochet Hook sizes G and H, yarn needle. Gauge: in DC with larger hook - 4 sts and 2 rows = 1". BACK: Ribbing: With MC and smaller hook, ch 13.   Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across-12 sc and row measures 2 1/2".   Ch 1, turn.   ROW 2: Sc in back loop only of first st and each st across to within last st, sc in both loops of last st.   Ch 1, turn.   Repeat row 2 until total length is 9 1/2".   At end of last row do not ch 1.   Change to larger hook. FOUNDATION Row: Ch 3, work 47 sts evenly spaced across long edge of ribbing.   Ch 3, turn.   NEXT Row: Skip first st, dc in next st and in each st across- 48 sts.   Ch 3 which counts as 1 dc, turn.   BEGIN PAT: Row 1: Skip first st, * skip next dc; dc around post of next dc inserting hook from front to back, dc around post of dc just skipped in the same manner - cross-st made**, dc in next 2 dc.   Rep from * across, end last rep at **, dc in top of ch 3.   Ch 3, turn.   ROW 2: Skip first st, *dc in top of each dc of next cross-st**, work cross-st over next 2 dc.  Rep from * across, end last rep at **, dc in top of ch 3.   Ch 3, turn.  ROWS 3 & 4: Rep rows 1&2.   ROW 5: Skip first st, dc in next st and in each st across.   Ch 3, turn.   ROW 6: Rep row 5. Rep rows 1-6 of pat 3 times more.  At the end of last rep do not work row 6.   Continue working in dc only and shape shoulders as follows: SHOULDER SHAPING: ROW 1:  Skip first st; (yo and draw up a lp in next st, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook) twice, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook - dc-dec made, dc across working 2 more dc-decs evenly spaced to within last 3 sts, work dc-dec over next 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3 - 4 sts decreased.   Ch 3, turn. ROWS 2-5:  Rep row 1 - 20 sts decreased.   There are 28 sts.   Fasten off. UNDERPIECE:  With larger hook ch 24.   ROW 1: Dc in fourth ch from hook and each ch across - 22 dc. Ch 3, turn.   ROW 2: Skip first st, dc in next st and each st across.   Ch 3, turn.   Work even until total length is 7 1/2 ".   NEXT 4 ROWS:  Skip first st, work dc-dec over next 2 sts, dc across to within last 3 sts, work dc-dec over next 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3.   Ch 3, turn.   LAST ROW: Rep row 2.   Fasten off. NECKBAND:  With smaller hook ch 5.  Work as for ribbing on back over 4 sc until total length is 9 1/2 ". Fasten off.   Sew short ends together holding wrong sides together (right side facing) and using whipstitch. Finishing:  Sew underpiece to back holding wrong sides together and using whipstitch as follows: Beg at neck and sew for 2 1/2 ", skip next 3 1/2 " for leg opening, sew to within 4" of lower edge.    With right side facing, attach yarn to corner of ribbing, ch 1, sc evenly spaced across short edge of ribbing, bottom edge of underpiece and opposite edge of ribbing.   Fasten off.   Work sc around each leg opening in same manner. Sew long edge of neckband around upper edge stretching to fit and using whipstitch as before.   Weave in all yarn ends. * This takes about 5 ounces of worsted weight yarn.

 

And here's another idea from Inka Rector:

I modify the idea so a knit sweater to create a much faster warm wool kid sweater. I took one of my old wool sweaters and cut off the sleeves. I then sewed a seam around the cut edge, cut slits for legs and a slit up the center and sewed a seam around the cuts to keep the yarn from unraveling. It worked like a charm and the kids seemed to warm up quickly. The shape of the sleeve even created a little collar which comes up on the kids neck. I may begin collecting cast off wool sweaters to create some more kid sweaters. Even though I am an avid knitter and may knit up a few kid sweaters, the sleeve idea was quick and easy. It works in a pinch when you have not made sweaters in advance.

Note from Molly: This is a great idea... just make certain that with males, not to have the sweater cover their penis, or they will wet the seater. It is better to have the back of the sweater a bit longer than the belly area.